Finally, a comment - we had planned to follow the module steps to the letter and I had prepared EVERYTHING to make that happen. Well, the day the seeds were planted (which actually was the Friday before the Monday that was scheduled) the substitute in my room used soil that I had "hidden" that had been used on a previous project instead of the prepared planting mix. This soil was "contaminated" as it had been fertilized with Jack's Classic fertilizer. The plants grown in this soil did so much better than the plants we eventually planted "correctly" (the following Monday) using Osmocote as prescribed. I've posted several pictures here of some of the obvious differences. Interesting enough, the plants in the contaminated soil still show clear differences between those with 6 (Lo) pellets of fertilizer and those with 24 (Hi) pellets of fertilizer (the Hi group grew faster, flowered sooner and produced more seeds). We did some math and discovered that the Hi group is actually closer to the manufacturer's suggested dosage for Osmocote.
Jack's Classic seems to be a better choice except for the tendency for algae growth. Is this the reason for switching?
This has been an excellent module for inclusion with my genetics unit but is especially valuable for re-enforcing science inquiry principles just before the state test.
I'm just finishing up the genetics module for Planting Sciences and had a couple of questions.
1. What level/type of artificial light is ideal? I used 4 T-8 cool white fluorescent tubes burning 24/7 and my plants seemed a bit leggy. I kept the plants within 5 to 10cm from the light source as suggested.
2. I hadn't intended to produce seed but got several fertile pods anyway. This raises questions about control when we actually do want to make crosses to test outcomes. How do we keep the plants genetics under control when making crosses. I can see all types of problems here - flowers touching on adjacent plants, moving pollen back and forth between plants, air movement carrying pollen and volunteer insect pollinators. Do you have some suggestions here. I definitely don't want to confuse the situation for my students.
3. The plants seemed weak and flopped everywhere. I eventually added a fan to the plant shelf to see if that would help them grow stronger. Since I added this after the plants were a week old, I don't have a good idea of how this affected their growth. I'm envious of the plants I see pictured that grow straight and tall. What am I missing here?
Hi Sami:It was nice to hear from you and to learn that you are interested in Fast Plants. You will be able to learn much more about fast plants by visiting 'history of fast plants'. on the Wisconsin Fast Plants website, www.fastplants.org . I hope you will enjoy communicating with others that use fast plants on this 'network' . Good luck!
HI am sami ,i hope ur fine iam juste astudent in in biology department , and i have litened that there is an plants that can grew to wholl plants in few days , is that true and thank u verry much ,good luck.
Thanks for the info. I asked about the soil because the recommendation to use only distilled water reminded me of what's needed for pitcher and venus flytrap plants. And I was also thinking of where these plants grow in nature--on top of decaying plant matter.
Teresa:I am sending today(Saturday,013109), via US Priority Mail, 6 microfuge tubes of fringe heartwort lobes(~10-15tiny lobes/tube)which should be enough for a lot of discovery cup gardens. With a toothpick or fine tipped forceps, tease out the various lobes( about 2-4mm in size) and transfer each to a DCG. I would not use potting soil for my garden but use seedling starter mix with a high,< 50%peat moss and low added fertilizer.Such mixes are available at garden centers, hardware stores and at Home Depot. Scotts markets seed starter mixes. You don't need the Jiffy -7 pelletts, as you can add the soil directly to the Discovery Cup Garden pot or as illustrated in the information card, Bottle Cap Gardens, you can make bottle cap wick pots to plant the gardens in. I will have Dan Lauffer of the WFP Program invoice you for the supplies and mailing. Good luck and keep in touch! Paul
I have some info about mini-garden necklace supplies. Go to
http://www.usascientific.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=545 for the tubes. 500 multicolored or clear tubes for $13. I finally found 50, 1 ounce, clear shot cups at a dollar store for $1.99 and they take the Solo brand caps--easy to find at any party store. Clear cups seem to be hard to find.